Imagining Chautauqua
Part II: The Suburbs
by Juan Wilson with
Linda Pascatore, Mark Fitzsimmons, Rebecca Albaugh
© 1993 Grafx Computing
Reprinted Spring Thaw 1995
Photo by Bill Owen from "Suburbs" 1972 Straight
Arrow Press
Now Rachel could hear the trolley speeding
down the hill from Panama Rocks. Its brakes squealed as it approached
Main Street. Just then Rachel saw its nose appear as it made
the turn towards her and the station next to the Little Brokenstraw
Creek. The Geographic Positioning System antenna and solar array
that covered the trolley's roof glistened in the sunlight. On
the station bench next to Rachel's grandma was an elderly man
with a knapsack. In a moment the trolley had come to a stop
in front of the station. Its windows were open and in the cab
were a few tourists from the Rock's Hotel, probably on a day
trip to Chautauqua Lake or the Institute.
As they did over a century ago, many tourists
now loved the ride around the lake by trolley just to see the
sights. Coordination of steamboat and trolley schedules were
becoming common again as well.
Grandma reached for her heavy wicker hamper
loaded with yogurt and other goat milk products they were taking
to market in Lakewood. Rachel joined her to take a handle but
her elderly friend was already there to help. Sara leaned to
her,
"You remember Mr. Whitney, don't you Rachel?"
Rachel nodded a greeting but didn't really
remember. She was eager to get on the trolley. The three of
them climbed the steps up to into the cab. The engineer winked
at Rachel and then spoke into a small wireless mike headset.
"Next stop Goose Creek Village, then Blockville,
Ashville and the Lake Line. Connections there to Chautauqua
Institute and Mayville. This train will continue on to Lakewood,
Celeron and Jamestown."
The engineer pushed forward on the controls,
engaging the batteries that made up the bulk of the weight of
the car. Smoothly they began their journey. As grandma took
care of the fares, Rachel ran and got the bench seat at the
back of the car. The three large back windows were raised and
Rachel got up on the cushioned bench seat on her knees and gripped
the seat back with both hands. By the time Grandma and Mr. Whitney
joined her the trolley had reached the Panama Union Cemetery
and was starting the climb up the long hill out of town. Sara
looked back at the town as it receded. The green bluff of Panama
Rocks was lit in the sunshine. A turkey buzzard rode a thermal
high over the ridge and then turned south towards Muzzy Hill.
The Panama Spur took twenty minutes to reach
the main Lake Line. In a few minutes the trolley crested the
hill at Eddy Road and began the long descent down and up and
around to Randolph Road. It was the most exciting part of the
trip, almost like a roller coaster. Rachel felt her heart rise
in her chest as they bottomed out at the bottom of the first
hill. On the way up the hill to Randolph Road they passed an
Amish carriage and a couple wearing helmets and bright spandex
on high performance bicycles. Rachel let go of the seat-back
with her right hand and waved to them.
Mr. Whitney had been speaking with Grandma
and Rachel noticed for the first time. She remembered now that
he was a dairy farmer who was a member of the Co-Op and Grange
in Panama. Grandma was saying,
"You'll be fine Ted. And you know the Grange
will be there for you if you need it."
But he sounded worried..
"Sara, you've got the right idea. Keep it small
and specialized. It's the only way dairies around here will
survive. The regional authorities are putting plenty of pressure
on the larger farms to convert to grain or bean for human consumption
or get out of the way for those who will. It's not that easy,
especially when you're losing money... Well, it's for my boys
to decide now. I'm just glad Nancy and I got the land trust
in place and can keep the farmhouse and out-buildings."
For a few minutes they passed a large field
to the north planted with soybean and then another field with
alternating rows of corn, squash and beans, in the classic Iroquois
Three Sisters mix. Soon the trolley was slowing the stop at
Swede Road...named Goose Creek Village. Rachel looked South
and could see the entrance to the new co-housing development
that had been completed last autumn. She could see just a few
roofs between the trees. While it was still under construction,
she and her Dad had ridden bikes to the site. He had said it
never would have been built if it weren't for the trolley service.
She remembered how all the houses were connected through a long
zig-zaggy basement. They all shared a heated pool and gym her
dad said would be covered by an inflated dome.
Sara turned to look, too. A few young adults
and a mother with two children stood in the shade of a partially
enclosed trolley stop designed in rustic Adirondack style. The
train engineer spoke into his tiny microphone,
"Goose Creek Village... Next stop Blockville...
Ashville and the Lake Line..."
The trolley came to a stop at Goose Creek Village.
About forty families lived there now with more coming. Some
worked down in the new office building in Panama, and a few
commuted into Jamestown but most worked at home. Half of the
first floor spaces were taken up by specialized shops and services.
Sara's doctor had moved there from Jamestown. Goose Creek Village
met the new regional planning criteria for clustered housing.
Over 75% of its 200 acre property was designated undevelopable
woods, another 20% was earmarked for gardens or recreational
use, while only 5%, or 10 acres, could be hard surfaced (roof
or road). The taxable property was calculated on the 25% of
the site that was occupied. It was a formula that was drawing
people from what had been suburbs, without the sprawl associated
with single family dwellings and universal automobile dependence.
Soon the smooth acceleration of the trolley
began again. A dog from the village tried to keep up with them,
and Rachel laughed and called to him, but soon he was out of
sight.
Before they pulled into Blockville the trolley
came upon a new chrome yellow Chrysler Photon that was going
out toward Panama. The Photon was a solar powered two-seater
that was getting popular even in the Northeast. It must have
been cruising at about 45 kph because Rachel gasped when it
passed her window and disappeared within a few seconds. They
passed Mill and Water Streets and the trolley's brakes squealed
as they came into the four corners of Blockville.
It was busy. There were at least three Amish
style buggies at the blacksmith's and Stull's Grocery Store
had no free parking spaces around it. Sara spoke to Ted again.
"When was the last time Blockville had a grocery
store? 1955?"
"Well, Nagel's garage was there on the northwest
corner as late as the 1960's. I think Bruce and Cecil Bush had
the grocery across the street sometime into the fifties."
The stop in Blockville lasted only a minute,
but it added several more passengers on their way towards the
lake. Soon they were passing the new lumber yard just to the
east of Blockville. Others said it was because of the lumber
mill, but Sara thought the growth and popularity of the Harmony
Historical Society had put Blockville back on the map. Certainly
their historical reenactments and restored farm and shops had
contributed to the new sense of community.
Rachel got up and went to the window looking
south. Once past the tree nursery, as they approached Ashville,
she would get a long view of the dam pond and the ducks and
geese that populated its banks. Whenever Rachel was in Ashville
she would try and get over to the pond to feed them. It was
a beautiful spot. Sara leaned to her a said softly,
"Sorry honey, not this time"
The trolley banked as they rounded the big
curve by the cemetery. Sara leaned against the force of the
curve and saw the tall stone obelisk memorial to "Hetfield"
slide by. It had been a familiar marker all her life. Rachel
gripped the window sill. It meant Ashville was coming up. They
passed the dam with its small hydro-electric generator rolling
past the center of town and over the bridge crossing Goose Creek.
The trolley stopped at the old renovated station across the
street from Ashville General Store.
Next to the station was the Trolley Simulator.
It was a big building. Inside was a detailed working scale model
of the entire Chautauqua Lake region trolley system. The model
worked in real time and mimicked the movement of real trains.
The model was kept up to date reflecting new buildings and actual
stands of trees. Geo-positioning technology on each trolley
forwarded its location and speed by satellite to the regional
dispatcher and that information was shared with the Simulator.
It was always fascinating to Rachel to think
that a model train one inch long was pulling into a miniature
station just as their real trolley arrived. Every school age
child within a day's travel had spent a day in Ashville exploring
the Trolley Simulator. There were now plans with the Army Corps
of Engineers for the Simulator to expand its functions to include
certain Chautauqua Lake watershed activities. Already an office
of the Allegheny Regional GIS Coordinator was housed within
the building running detailed computer environmental simulations
of the Chautauqua area.
As passengers entered and left the train the
engineer spoke into his mike headset.
"This stop Ashville. the next stop is Cottage
Park with our connection to the Lake Line. Passengers going
to Chautauqua Institute and Mayville should transfer there.
This train will become an express and continue on to Lakewood,
Celeron and Jamestown."
Trolley started again and pulled out of Ashville.
After a curve it started down the long straightaway towards
the lake. As they approached the lake, Rachel moved forward
in the car. Even though the train was now full there was a spot
behind the engineer where she could stand and see over his shoulder.
They were passing through a flat wetland, managed by the Chautauqua
Watershed Conservancy. There were no houses on either side of
the roadway for almost a mile here and the area had become famous
for its aquatic bird population. Rachel had walked on the raised
boardwalks that wound through the marshes and seen egret and
heron fishing in the clear shallow water before it reached the
lake.
As they neared the lake a vista opened up to
reveal a broad view of Sherman's Bay. The Strip had never reached
this far up the old Fairmount Avenue, and consequently the view
was unhindered. When the economic collapse hit the Strip much
of the commercial property that was unrelated to recreation
and water activities had been torn down as an improvement to
lakeside amenities. On the left was Sherman's Bay Marina. Beyond
a row of new lakeside townhouses, known as Cottage Park, stretched
towards Maple Point. As they got nearer Rachel could see dozens
of colorful sails shining on the westerly breeze.
They were not the sails of boats like her grandmother
and Mr. Whitney had seen as children. These were KeelKites.
Developed originally in the Finger Lake Region of what had been
New York State, KeelKites had become the rage everywhere in
just a few years. Already second and third generation designs
were finding their way to the growing market.
A KeelKite consisted of a submersible keel
about eight feet long that was attached to a kite-like sail
by stainless steel cables. When in motion, the pilot hung below
the sail in a harness, about twenty feet above the water. The
keel ran about two feet under the water like a submarine. It
had fins and a rudder that could be controlled by the pilot
in the harness. The keel provided the resistance to keep the
sail from blowing away, while the sail captured the energy to
pull the keel through the water. In effect the KeelKite was
a sailboat without the boat.
Due to low water resistance, KeelKites could
sail significantly faster that comparably sized high performance
catamarans. The KeelKite depended on a small waterproof computer
to assist the pilot in balancing the inherently unstable dynamics
between wind and water. As in water skiing and hang gliding
a successful launch was critical. The KeelKite needed a running
start and the pilot needed to be in the air at launch. KeelKites
could start off by being towed from a power boat, if one was
available. The Sherman's Bay Marina had two launch towers, thirty
feet high, on a pier about a hundred and fifty feet from shore
that used a spring to launch the keels like torpedoes.
Apparently a regatta race was starting out
from the Marina. More than a dozen pilots tacked back and forth
getting into a starting formation for a race up the lake to
Bemus. As she watched a bright pink sail blossomed with air
as a pilot was launched from one of the towers, then the trolley
man startled her,
"Cottage Park and Sherman's Bay. Connections
with the Lake Line..."
Rachel turned and ran back to the rear of the
car. Several passengers were already preparing to disembark.
The trolley passed through a switch and swayed and rattled as
it joined the easterly track of the main line. Just past Big
Tree Road the train turned to parallel the embankment of the
old Conrail right of way. They climbed to the top of the embankment
and Rachel could see the houses near the lake above Summit Avenue.
In a minute they coasted into the Lakewood Station near Chautauqua
Avenue. Rachel grabbed a pole as the train slowed to a stop.
She swung around it and seated herself next to Grandma. There
were two stops in Lakewood. The first was Lakewood Center. It
was the second stop, near Burtis Bay, that had given Rachel
the spooks. People mostly called the place Striptown.
"Don't worry honey, this is the just the Center."
She looked into Rachel's worried eyes and added,
"Rachel, I can get a good price for our yogurt
there. We should only be in Striptown about half an hour."
Mr. Whitney was going to get off at Striptown
too. In his knapsack he carried two family heirlooms that were
of cash value... accurate spring wound watches. Every week there
was a open air flea market in a park near the lake on Fairdale
Avenue. Cash, alternative currencies and barter were exchanged
for goods and services. At another time and place it would have
been called a Black Market.
"Well Sara, I need the cash. At least my boys
do. Once we can get past this year, things will be different"
Grandma turned to him and said only...
"It's too bad, Ted."
Soon they were moving again. As the landscape
flattened out the train embankment rose. In a few blocks they
were high enough to pass over the bridge that straddled Shadyside
Road. The embankment had few other streets penetrating it and
therefore sharply segregated the lake homes to the north from
the remains of what had been the Strip along the old Fairmount
Avenue.
Rachel began to get nervous. Looking south
the light glared off the flat roof of industrial style buildings.
What had originally been a marshy area had once been completely
developed. Now it was in ruins. They passed close to the back
of the old Quality Market. The back wall and much of the roof
had collapsed in a forgotten snowstorm after the store failed.
Rachel couldn't help but look into its looted bowels and shudder.
The Red Lobster next door had been built on top of a creek.
When it burned to the ground the watershed authorities decided
no one could rebuild on so sensitive a site. Now no one had
the money to clean up these commercial carcasses. Marsh weeds
grew through the old blacktop in their parking lots.
Once past the Quality the passengers on the
train had a wide view south to ruins of the Chautauqua Mall.
There was no traffic. Most people tried to avoid the area. The
only "patrons" appeared to be a few gulls sitting on the few
rusted sodium lamps that were still upright. Some years earlier
there had been an effort to clear and pile up some of the useless
acres of asphalt to return the site to its original state of
wetland, but money had run out. Over the years the blacktop
had been broken up by spring thaws and blistering summer heat.
From the trolley you could even see clumps of grasses and a
few saplings growing on the mall roof. All that was visible
of the hard surface of the parking lot was a lumpy green and
brown field dotted with Indian Paintbrush, White Clover and
other opportunistic wildflowers. In places small birch trees
had grown through openings in the pavement. A few abandoned
cars punctuated the scene and as Rachel watched, a pack of wild
dogs ran from behind a burned out van. The leader held something
in his mouth that the others raced to grab. Ted spoke,
"When I was young I took a train into New York
City from Connecticut. We passed through the South Bronx. It
was worse than this then. Bigger, scarier. I couldn't understand
what I saw at the time. Now I know its just that people gave
up on one way of doing things and began another."
Sara was aware of Rachel holding her arm tightly.
"But so much has gone to waste. When we can
afford to, we are going to have to clean this up."
Rachel had turned to look away from the ruins
of Fairmount Avenue. She still held Grandma's hand and she looked
to the north as they approached the Striptown station at Fairdale
Avenue. The trainman spoke again,
"The next stop will be Fairdale Avenue...Striptown..."
The train slowed again. Below them, to the
north, Rachel could see the building that once housed the Chautauqua
Lake Association. Nearby was the ancient and still active Lakewood
Rod and Gun Club. Burtis Bay no longer existed. What had been
open water had become a meadow six feet deep in burr reed, cattails
and other marshland grasses. In school she had learned that
the decades of runoff from the commercial development around
the lake had caused the silting in of its south eastern part
near the outlet into the Chadakoin River. The hundreds of new
acres of marshland was a blessing for the flora and fauna of
the lake. It acted as a buffer and filter for the toxic material
that seeped from the abandoned commercial strip up on Fairmount
Avenue.
Many lakeside homes, marinas and recreational
facilities between Lakewood and Celeron were now as far as a
mile from open water. Needless to say, they had lost their value.
In fact, they had become a slum and were for the most part abandoned.
The Chautauqua Watershed Authority was concentrating on plight
of these properties first, before turning its attention to the
strip area south of the tracks.
Rachel could see the tents, booths and other
temporary structures of the flea market as they slowed to a
stop at Fairdale Avenue. This was the commercial hub of Striptown.
Those with suburban homes up above the mall now came down to
this area along the north of the tracks to shop for everything
from fresh vegetables to illegal kerosene.
As they got off the train Grandma and Rachel
stayed close together. Mr. Whitney had his knapsack on his shoulder
and was again helping with the wicker basket. They worked their
way slowly down the steps from the station that led toward the
market. There a variety of traffic on the road. An old diesel
truck smoked as it waited for an oxcart carrying a heavy piece
of farm equipment.
Grandma led Rachel to a nearby area where horse
drawn carts displayed local peas, lettuce, and leeks. Sara had
an arrangement with a friend who operated a stall here to sell
her goat milk products. A teenage boy behind the counter explained
that Sara's friend was away and would return shortly. Mr. Whitney
put the wicker basket on the counter and said good-bye. Rachel
watched him move off through the crowd to sell his watches.
Grandma was busy unpacking her basket and Rachel turned to entertain
herself with the market scene. The ground was muddy, even though
the sun was shining. She noticed a young chocolate Labrador
sniffing around the food booths for anything interesting. It
was just past being a puppy and seemed very friendly. Rachel
smiled and suddenly didn't feel so nervous about the place.
She bent to stroke the Lab's head and then
scratch behind his ears. Before she did, one of the vendors
shouted at the dog and threw a stone at it. The young dog yelped
and bolted from the curb. Under other circumstances the sound
of a passing gas relic with no muffler would have alerted the
dog. But the Labrador noticed too late. The dog was knocked
to the muddy road by the front tire. The next tire rolled over
its rear leg. Rachel was only feet away and heard the bone snap
and the dog scream. She had never heard anything like that in
her life. The car didn't stop, it accelerated. Rachel's eyes
flooded and she went to comfort the dog.
Already the crowd was so thick around the accident
that she couldn't see Grandma. The dog couldn't get up for a
moment. As Rachel reached out she saw the panic in the Lab's
eyes. It was up in a second and hopping south to the Fairdale
Avenue underpass beneath the tracks. Rachel had to help. She
followed, her heart pounding as she went through the underpass.
The dog was up on Fairmount Avenue and hobbling badly. Rachel
followed further. She was sure she could catch up to the dog
in a minute and get him some help. The young dog looked back
at her and hurried on. She wasn't thinking of her own safety,
even though the sight of the Strip frightened her.
She was getting tired. Up ahead on the left
was a place that looked open. Maybe she could get help there.
It was an old building, from before the time of the Strip. It
had a big painted sign that was peeling and faded, "Johnny's
Lunch: Our 9th Decade of Service: Three Texas Hots Only $1.29".
The dog spotted the teenagers before Rachel did. There were
five of them and they looked mean. The Lab crossed the road
to avoid them. Rachel looked across the road at the wreckage
of a Burger King and McDonalds that moldered in the glare of
the afternoon sun. She crossed the five empty lanes of the big
strip after the pup. She wasn't quite sure now if she were following
the Lab, or was being followed herself by the teenagers.
Rachel saw the wounded dog continue south up
the hill between the wrecked burger outlets. She followed the
dog up the access road that climbed to the big Wegman's shopping
plaza. A faded sign read "Bio-Hazard Containment Area: Keep
Out! Alleghaney Regional Authority". The closed plaza loomed
over the devastated strip below. There had once been 50 acres
of parking herethat funneled cars down to this ramp onto Fairmount
Avenue. Rachel heard the sound of a bottle breaking on the pavement
behind her, but she was too frightened to look back. Next to
the access road was a depressed area the size of a large playing
field. It was the catch basin for the site. For decades the
oil, gas, antifreeze, transmission oil, brake fluid, windshield
wiper fluid and road salt worked their way to this basin to
be mixed with the drippings of dumpsters and blowing litter.
There were even several rusted out cars down there in the soup.
The dog passed through an opening in the old chain link fence
and it headed down into the catch basin.
The Lab lost its footing and yelped as it slid
down the steep incline. It rolled the last yard or two before
it splashed into an old truck tire locked in the muck. The dog
cried and struggled in the slop. Besides shopping carts and
tires, there were unrecognizable shapes in the muck.
Rachel thought she heard someone up on the
access road behind her now, but she was already on her way down
to reach the young Lab. She must get the dog out of here and
to help. She got down to the bottom of the incline without falling
and for the first time began to sense how much danger she was
in. The dog was looking past Rachel fearfully up the slope.
She chilled inside as she realized that she and the pup were
standing in the shadow of something coming down into the pit
after them. Her heart was clenched as she turned to face whatever
it was.
"Rachel, hold on! Let me get you two out of
there!"
She could see the profile against the sun now.
It was Mr. Whitney moving sideways down the slope. By the time
he reached her, she knew she was safe and that the puppy would
get help.
Imagining
Chautauqua:Part III
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